Third Voyage Around The World, in 2024
On January 3, 2024, we set sail from Ft Lauderdale on an epic 128 day voyage around the world, scheduled to return to Ft Lauderdale on May 11. We are sailing on the Holland America ship Zuiderdam which has a passenger capacity of more than 1900. This is much larger than any ship on which we have taken a long voyage before, but we are told that only a little more than 1200 passengers are actually on board. This will certainly make the ship less crowded but it’s still pretty big for our tastes and we are still trying to remember where everything is located two days later as I write this.
We joined this voyage primarily because its itinerary was so good for us, sailing to a number of interesting places we have never been, including Japan, China, India & Hawaii. So far we have had two itinerary changes before sailing, with three Israeli ports cancelled after war broke out there on October 7, and a reversal of our port stops in China that would enable many of us to visit those cities without obtaining a Chinese visa. As of today, here is our scheduled itinerary, first a map and then a list of port stops (the flaming round map icons denote overnight stops and the moon icons denote late night departures):
Day Date Itinerary Arrival Departure
WED 03JAN24 Sail from Fort Lauderdale, Florida, US 5:00pm
SUN 07JAN24 Scarborough, Trinidad and Tobago 8:00am 5:00pm
TUE 09JAN24 Devils Island, French Guiana 8:00am 5:00pm
THU 11JAN24 Macapa, Brazil 6:00am 11:00am
FRI 12JAN24 Alter Do Chao, Brazil 11:00am 6:00pm
SAT 13JAN24 Boca da Valeria, Brazil 7:00am 2:00pm
SUN 14JAN24 Manaus, Brazil 8:00am 5:00pm
MON 15JAN24 Parintins, Brazil 10:00am 6:00pm
TUE 16JAN24 Santarem, Brazil 8:00am 5:00pm
SAT 20JAN24 Saint Georges, Grenada 8:00am 5:00pm
MON 22JAN24 Willemstad, Curacao 8:00am 6:00pm
WED 24JAN24 Panama Canal 5:00am 5:00pm
FRI 26JAN24 Quepos, Costa Rica 7:00am 4:00pm
MON 29JAN24 Manzanillo, Mexico 12:00n 9:00pm
TUE 30JAN24 Puerto Vallarta, Mexico 8:00am 5:00pm
TUE 06FEB24 Kona, Hawaii, US 10:00am 8:00pm
WED 07FEB24 Hilo, Hawaii, US 8:00am 5:00pm
THU 08FEB24 Honolulu, Hawaii, US 7:00am 11:00pm
SUN 18FEB24 Guam (US Territory), Guam 8:00am 5:00pm
MON 19FEB24 Saipan, Northern Mariana Islands 8:00am 5:00pm
FRI 23FEB24 Ishigaki Island, Japan 7:00am 5:00pm
SAT 24FEB24 Naha, Japan 7:00am
SUN 25FEB24 Naha, Japan 11:00pm
WED 28FEB24 Tokyo, Japan 8:00am
THU 29FEB24 Tokyo, Japan 6:00pm
FRI 01MAR24 Omaezaki, Japan 7:00am 5:00pm
SAT 02MAR24 Kobe, Japan 9:00am
SUN 03MAR24 Kobe, Japan 5:00pm
MON 04MAR24 Scenic Cruising Kanmon Strait
TUE 05MAR24 Fukuoka (Hakata), Japan 7:00am 4:00pm
THU 07MAR24 Shanghai, China 8:00am
FRI 08MAR24 Shanghai, China 5:00pm
SUN 10MAR24 Dalian, China 8:00am 5:00pm
MON 11MAR24 Tianjin (Beijing), China 8:00am
TUE 12MAR24 Tianjin (Beijing), China 6:00pm
SAT 16MAR24 Hong Kong, China 8:00am
SUN 17MAR24 Hong Kong, China 3:30pm
TUE 19MAR24 Da Nang (Hue), Vietnam 8:00am 11:00pm
THU 21MAR24 Phu My, Vietnam 6:00am 6:00pm
SAT 23MAR24 Singapore 8:00am
SUN 24MAR24 Singapore 5:00pm
THU 28MAR24 Colombo, Sri Lanka 8:00am 11:00pm
SUN 31MAR24 Mumbai (Bombay), India 6:00am
MON 01APR24 Mumbai (Bombay), India 5:00pm
THU 04APR24 Fujairah, United Arab Emirates 8:00am 6:00pm
FRI 05APR24 Dubai, United Arab Emirates 7:00am 11:00pm
SAT 06APR24 Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates 8:00am 11:00pm
MON 08APR24 Muscat, Oman 8:00am 6:00pm
WED 10APR24 Salalah, Oman 8:00am 5:00pm
MON 15APR24 Sharm el Sheikh, Egypt 7:00am 8:00pm
TUE 16APR24 Aqaba (for Petra), Jordan 6:00am 8:00pm
THU 18APR24 Suez Canal 6:00am 6:00pm
SAT 20APR24 Rhodes, Greece 8:00am 9:00pm
SUN 21APR24 Bodrum, Turkey 8:00am 6:00pm
MON 22APR24 Kusadasi (Ephesus), Turkey 8:00am 6:00pm
TUE 23APR24 Cruising The Dardanelles
TUE 23APR24 Istanbul, Turkey 4:00pm
WED 24APR24 Istanbul, Turkey 4:00pm
THU 25APR24 Mykonos, Greece 11:00am 11:00pm
FRI 26APR24 Piraeus (Athens), Greece 7:00am 5:00pm
SUN 28APR24 Naples (Pompeii/Amalfi), Italy 8:00am 7:00pm
WED 01MAY24 Malaga, Spain 7:00am 5:00pm
SAT 04MAY24 Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel, Azores, 8:00am 5:00pm
SAT 11MAY24 Debark Ship Fort Lauderdale 7:00am
The itinerary for this voyage has been uncertain from the beginning and we are still not sure how it will turn out. Notably:
Brazil: When we first visited Brazil in 2012 we purchased a visa that lasted 10 years. We visited again in 2019, when our visa would still have been good but Brazil had eliminated visas for US citizens. Earlier this year they announced they were reinstating a visa requirement for Americans at the beginning of 2014, about a year after our old visa, unused since 2012, ran out. The new visa requirement was to start for people entering Brazil on January 11, 2024 . . . the day we would arrive (coincidence? We wonder).
The date on which they would accept visa applications was delayed from early October until about a week into December, less than a month before we were to depart. This created a lot of pressure on passengers because we were told, repeatedly, that no one would be permitted to board the ship on January 3 without a Brazilian visa, thus putting the entire voyage in doubt for anyone who didn’t obtain a visa by then. And, of course, obtaining a visa turned out to be excruciatingly difficult. After filling out their form each of us had to upload a picture of ourself and of our picture passport page, in specified format with vague sizing requirements. We had to upload a copy of our Airline itinerary to and from Brazil (they later agreed to accept our ship itinerary) and a bank statement showing the names of the bank and the account holder and transactions for the last month demonstrating that we have at least $2,000 (ie. enough to get home again). The reviewing process was very slow (sometimes more than a week or even two) and arbitrary, since different demands for reuploading unaccepted documents were issued. Often no explanation was given about what was wrong with the initial document provided and there was no one you could contact for explanation or assistance. And remember, with the departure date fast approaching, the entire cruise was in jeopardy.
Was anybody nervous? You bet! Shortly before Christmas Holland America announced that no one would be denied boarding for lack of a visa after all and if Brazil wouldn’t accommodate us they would change the itinerary to skip Brazil. Then about a week later, as we were preparing to leave, HAL announced that Brazil had agreed that the ship could sail up the Amazon so long as passengers without a visa did not leave the ship. So at least no one was going to miss the entire cruise. Rick’s evisa finally arrived in his inbox the day before we sailed and Mary’s came today, three days into the voyage. We understand that about half the passengers hadn’t received visas by the time we sailed. Then yesterday Brazil announced that they were postponing the visa requirement for three months (what they should have done in the first place). So now everyone is free to visit the Brazilian ports (assuming we will be able to sail up the Amazon, which is suffering from a historic drought that kept some ships from visiting it a month or so ago). All we are out, therefore, is the $160 we paid for a Brazilian visa we probably will never need (no refunds, at least so far). That is not counting any health effects of a month of unnecessary tension for a bunch of people who are no longer as young as they once were.
The Red Sea: As I mentioned above, we originally had three stops in Israel that were changed in October. But we have no idea what may happen when we arrive at the southern entry to the Red Sea in April. The war in Israel continues, ships are avoiding the Red Sea and Suez Canal because some are being attacked with missiles and drones from Yemen, the US is threatening the Houthis in Yemen with military force if they don’t stop doing that, and Iran has reportedly sent war ships to the Red Sea and the Mediterranean. By April this may all be over, or it may have spread into a wider conflict shutting down the Red Sea. If the Red Sea is not open for cruise ships it seems we will have to be redirected around Africa, missing the Mediterranean portion of this itinerary. That would be pretty drastic and disappointing to us, first because it would mean more and wider suffering for the people in the region, but also because we visited most of the ports in Africa last year and were looking forward to some of the stops in the Mediterranean. Still, such a drastic alteration of a world cruise is not unprecedented: in 2020 HAL’s world cruise was aborted in Australia at the beginning of the COVID pandemic and passengers had to leave the ship in Perth and find a flight home from there. It was more than half a year before they saw their luggage again. So detouring around Africa wouldn’t be the worst that can happen (while being hit by a missile in the Red Sea would be). Obviously, we are hoping it doesn’t come to that.
Anyway, however it goes we intend to enjoy this voyage. We have a lot of great experiences planned and life aboard the ship is also enjoyable (unless you really enjoy washing dishes, making beds and doing laundry, which is all done for us here). Some people post to their blogs every day, it seems, but we don’t know how they do it. Blog writing can only be done on sea days and each episode seems to take us a long time to compose. Our main goal in this blog is to create a record of what we have done and seen on our travels that will serve as a diary/photo album, allowing us to look back on them and remember what we have experienced. So the permanent product is more important to us than keeping up with daily events. The result is that our postings will fall further and further behind the ship’s actual progress and we will not finish blogging this journey until months after we return.
If you are interested in following where we and the Zuiderdam are at any particular time you can see it on this page:
https://www.seascanner.com/ships-position-zuiderdamr
If you would like to receive an email when a new episode is posted to this blog there is a link where you can subscribe at the very bottom of this page. Because episodes will, at best, be posted intermittently on fairly random dates (on Grand Africa nothing was posted before we returned), and this blog is old-fashioned and not well indexed, subscribing is probably the easiest way to follow it. If you have subscribed in the past I don’t think you have to do it again (unless your email has changed).
If you click the “About” button at the top of this page you will learn more about this blog than you probably want to, including past voyages that are included here.
So that’s it for now. If you see this you will know that we were able to upload to our blog site (this didn’t work at all on our Grand Africa voyage last year). If you don’t, then nothing I say here will matter. We will leave you with two pictures. The first is us (on the left) with our friends Bill, Robert, Judy and Bob at dinner on the first night of the cruise. We all met during our first world cruise in 2016 when HAL threw us together to share a dining table, along with our friend Lee. All seven of us travelled together again on a world cruise in 2018. Only six of us are together this time, but only because Lee died during the 2018 voyage; otherwise we are sure he would have been here. The second picture is our first glorious Caribbean sunset. See you next time.

Lord Have Mercy! That is quite an itinerary. Good for you. Thanks for thinking of us. That length of cruise is nothing, however, Karen and I would undertake. Though you will no doubt learn much on your travels and observe how other people live.
Karen, by the way, is struggling a bit now having been diagnosed with Tardive Dyskenesia a disease that affects your mobility so she now has a walker and a folding chair with four wheels that you push and can rest in.
We have moved to a two bedroom apartment in a 55 + complex which provides free breakfasts 5 weekdays, then paid lunches an available Tuesdays and Thursdays and dinner is available Wednesdays and Fridays.
January 8, 2024 at 4:07 pm
Thanks John, glad to have you along. We are very sorry to hear about Karen’s troubles; these things seem to happen to the nicest people, who don’t deserve it. Sounds like you have found a nice place to live though. We have been thinking it might be nice at our age to live in a one floor place with no stairs, but I don’t think that will happen any time soon. Please give Karen our best.
Rick & Mary
January 9, 2024 at 10:20 am
Yay! I love your blogs! Your pictures are always outstanding. Have a wonderful cruise. Happy New Year.
January 8, 2024 at 4:11 pm
Wonderful to see you back on HAL. Your photos are alwasy first rate and the commentary perfect! So glad to be able to follow you on this mystery cruise. Bon Voyage – ahve a wonderful time!
January 8, 2024 at 4:15 pm
Hope you both have a wonderful cruise! Kathi
January 8, 2024 at 11:21 pm
Thanks Kathi. How great to hear from you! We were hoping you would be on board, but at least its nice to know you are still involved and following. Maybe next time?
Rick & Mary
January 9, 2024 at 9:46 am
Hi. Thanks for blogging. Good luck with your cruise. I do hope, for many reasons, that you are able to steam through the Suez Canal and complete your itinerary. And we look forward to seeing you stateside on your return.
January 10, 2024 at 7:05 pm
I am so glad you two were able
January 11, 2024 at 2:00 pm
I am so glad you two are getting to do this cruise. I would hate to know Mary had both knee replacements done for nothing! Also glad your friends could make the trip with you. Traveling with friends makes the trip more fun. If you miss the Mediterranean portion of this cruise you can always sign up for another cruise that covers that area. (much safer and cheaper than negotiating with the houthi for you release) Safe travels Cecile
January 11, 2024 at 2:16 pm