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Australia Update

     This is just a quick post to let our friends & family know we are still alive & kicking.

     Since we last posted we have been visiting New Zealand & Australia.  The weather has not been kind to us, but so far we have missed only one port: Port Arthur, Tasmania (Australia).  We have had a lot of cold & rainy days and quite a lot of heavy sea turbulence, particularly rounding the southern end of New Zealand and now in Tasmania.  We visited Hobart, Tasmania, on the 13th with a very nice day. But the Captain decided to shorten the visit & “get out of Dodge” because a big storm was coming toward the west coast of Tasmania. 

     We turned around at 9:00 PM & headed out the river & then back up the east coast of Tasmania, then turned west at the top.  Winds and sea turbulence have been all that he predicted and more, with 26 foot waves that reached the 5th deck and winds that reached 86 mph, hurricane (or cyclone here) level.  So we have been rocking & rolling and doing our best to keep on our feet when walking.  The Captain says he still hopes to make it to Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island tomorrow, but at noon rather than 8:00 AM as scheduled because most of last night we “hove to,” meaning the ship was not moving because the turbulence was too bad to make any progress.  We are not convinced that a stop at Kangaroo Island, a tender port, is in the cards but we are keeping our fingers crossed.

   Anyway, New Zealand was great & only one of the ports was a repeat for us (Auckland).  We cruised through Fiordland National Park on the South Island, and Milford Sound was especially impressive.  Unfortunately, Rick got sick the day before we reached Sydney, so other than the sail in (gray & cloudy, alas) & a night at the Sydney Opera House to see Carmen, he spent the two days in Sydney in bed.  One expects some setbacks on a four month world cruise, and this was easier to take because we had been to Sydney before & had seen quite a lot after a magnificent sail in.  If all this sounds too negative, we really don’t mean to complain because, after all, this is a world cruise; just giving a status report.  Even the rocky seas are something of an adventure!

     So here are just a few pictures from this segment of the voyage.

23a. Fjordland National Park, New Zealand_stitch36. Sydney, Australia40a. Aukland, New Zealand108. Hobart, Tasmania139. Hobart, Tasmania119a. Napier, New Zealand_stitch

South Pacific update (I hope)

This is our first try at an email posting. We are currently in the future, having crossed the international date line a couple of days ago (I would share a picture of it, but of course it is invisible). Somewhat surprisingly, we made it ashore to all of the South Pacific islands on the itinerary. All but Tahiti are tender ports & Rarotonga & Niue lack outer reefs that create lagoons with calm water for easy tendering. So those two islands are often missed because of bad weather or rough sea conditions. Boarding the tenders was pretty dicey on both of these days, especially at Rarotonga, but we did make it ashore. So that is probably a pretty good omen for the rest of the cruise.
For the last two days we have been sailing through a real gale, with wind speeds up to about 60 mph. The ship has really been rocking, both side to side & front to back. Actually, the captain says we are threading our way between two big storms, so we are getting it from both sides. The weather on our port days has been mostly quite good, so we can’t really complain about bad weather when we are confined to the ship anyway. Day after tomorrow we will be in Auckland, New Zealand, which is actually the last of the Polynesian Islands we will visit on this cruise.
I have attached a couple of pictures, so we will see if they get posted when I send this. The first is a view of the island of Moorea from Tahiti. The second is the early morning sail in to Bora Bora.

38.-Tahitia_stitch_thumb.jpg10a.-Bora-Bora_stitch1_thumb.jpg

Second Time Around

    In the last blog episode from our 2016 World Cruise, https://baderjournal.wordpress.com/2016/07/, we summed up this way:

So that’s it for this truly epic journey, a true circumnavigation of the globe (which we discovered requires you to pass through two points on precisely opposite sides of the world . . . ours were near New Zealand & Gibraltar)).  This is truly a once in a lifetime trip . . . unless you do it again, which we just might.  So long until next time.”

     So today, less than two years later, “next time” has already come as we find ourselves again boarding the M/S Amsterdam for another turn around the world.

On Shuttle to ship in Ft Lauderdale21. Juneau

     We didn’t think we would be doing this again quite this quickly, but HAL offered an interesting itinerary around the southern part of Africa instead of going through the Med.  And in addition all of our table mates from the 2016 cruise decided to go again this year, so how could we pass up such a happy reunion?

Last night with our table maates in 2016: (around table from left) Bill, Robert, Rick, Mary, Lee, Bob, Judy (photo edited by Bob)

     The first episode of our 2016 world cruise blog included my characteristically discursive review of the history of world cruising.  It’s still there so I won’t bore you with any more of that today. if you want to read it just aim you browser to ttps://baderjournal.wordpress.com/2015/12/27/around-the-world-in-115-days/.

     This year we will be returning to some interesting ports we visited in 2016 & also visiting some new places where we have never been before.  Here is the current itinerary map:

image

Here is a list version of the itinerary, which is probably easier to follow & also tells you when we are supposed to be there:

DATE

DAY

PORT

ARRIVE

DEPART

Jan 04

Thu

Ft. Lauderdale, Florida

8:00 PM

Jan 06

Sat

Georgetown, Grand Cayman

10:00 AM

6:00 PM

Jan 08

Mon

Puerto Limón (San José), Costa Rica

7:00 AM

4:00 PM

Jan 09

Tue

Panama Canal Transit

Fuerte Amador (Panama City), Panama

8:00 PM

Jan 10

Wed

Fuerte Amador (Panama City), Panama

4:00 PM

Jan 14

Sun

Crossing the Equator

Jan 19

Fri

Taihoae, Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia

9:00 AM

6:00 PM

Jan 21

Sun

Avatoru, Rangiroa, French Polynesia

8:00 AM

5:00 PM

Jan 22

Mon

Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

8:00 AM

Jan 23

Tue

Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

5:00 AM

Cook’s Bay, Moorea, French Polynesia

8:00 AM

5:00 PM

Jan 24

Wed

Vaitape, Bora Bora, French Polynesia

8:00 AM

11:00 PM

Jan 26

Fri

Avatiu, Rarotonga, Cook Islands

8:00 AM

5:00 PM

Jan 28

Sun

Alofi, Niue

8:00 AM

5:00 PM

Jan 30

Tue

Crossing the International Date Line

Feb 02

Fri

Auckland, New Zealand

7:00 AM

8:00 PM

Feb 03

Sat

Tauranga (Rotorua), New Zealand

8:00 AM

6:00 PM

Feb 04

Sun

Napier, New Zealand

11:00 AM

11:00 PM

Feb 06

Tue

Port Chalmers (Dunedin), New Zealand

8:00 AM

6:00 PM

Feb 07

Wed

Fiordland National Park – scenic cruising

Feb 10

Sat

Sydney, Australia

8:00 AM

Feb 11

Sun

Sydney, Australia

6:00 PM

Feb 13

Tue

Hobart, Australia

8:00 AM

Feb 14

Wed

Hobart, Australia

4:00 AM

Port Arthur, Australia

8:00 AM

3:00 PM

Feb 16

Fri

Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island, Australia

8:00 AM

6:00 PM

Feb 17

Sat

Adelaide, Australia

8:00 AM

11:00 PM

Feb 20

Tue

Albany, Australia

8:00 AM

5:00 PM

Feb 21

Wed

Fremantle (Perth), Australia

4:00 PM

Feb 22

Thu

Fremantle (Perth), Australia

5:00 PM

Feb 26

Mon

Benoa (Denpasar), Bali, Indonesia

8:00 AM

Feb 27

Tue

Benoa (Denpasar), Bali, Indonesia

11:00 PM

Mar 03

Sat

Puerto Princesa, Philippines

8:00 AM

6:00 PM

Mar 05

Mon

Manila, Philippines

8:00 AM

Mar 06

Tue

Manila, Philippines

5:00 PM

Mar 08

Thu

Hong Kong, People’s Republic of China

8:00 AM

Mar 09

Fri

Hong Kong, People’s Republic of China

6:00 PM

Mar 12

Mon

Phu My (Ho Chi Minh City), Vietnam

6:00 AM

6:00 PM

Mar 14

Wed

Singapore

8:00 AM

Mar 15

Thu

Singapore

11:00 PM

Mar 17

Sat

Phuket, Thailand

8:00 AM

5:00 PM

Mar 20

Tue

Colombo, Sri Lanka

8:00 AM

5:00 PM

Mar 24

Sat

Victoria, Mahé, Seychelles

10:00 AM

11:00 PM

Mar 27

Tue

La Possession, Réunion

8:00 AM

6:00 PM

Mar 31

Sat

Maputo, Mozambique

8:00 AM

6:00 PM

Apr 03

Tue

Cape Town, South Africa

8:00 AM

Apr 04

Wed

Cape Town, South Africa

Apr 05

Thu

Cape Town, South Africa

5:00 PM

Apr 07

Sat

Walvis Bay, Namibia

8:00 AM

11:00 PM

Apr 10

Tue

Luanda, Angola

8:00 AM

5:00 PM

Apr 13

Fri

Crossing the Equator

Apr 16

Mon

Banjul, Gambia

8:00 AM

6:00 PM

Apr 17

Tue

Dakar, Senegal

8:00 AM

6:00 PM

Apr 19

Thu

Praia, llha de Santiago, Cape Verde

8:00 AM

6:00 PM

Apr 25

Wed

San Juan, Puerto Rico

8:00 AM

11:00 PM

Apr 28

Sat

Ft. Lauderdale, Florida

7:00 AM

     This is our “current” itinerary because we have learned over the years that the scheduled stops are not guaranteed.  We have missed ports because the weather or ocean turbulence made tendering ashore too dangerous & also because of political unrest.  This year’s trip was originally supposed to include Madagascar, but that was cancelled because of an outbreak of plague, so we will be stopping at Reunion Island instead.  If we don’t have to miss any other stops along the way we will be pretty happy campers, & also somewhat surprised.  A lot can happen over the course of four months!

     We always drive to Florida & leave our car for the duration of the trip.  There is parking on the pier, but its pretty expensive for a long trip ($15 or $20, last time we checked).  We park our car at a place called Auto Storage USA, http://www.autostorageusa.com/.  The long term rates are very reasonable, a fraction of the pier price, the lot is enclosed by a 10 foot wall with an electronic sliding gate, & the people who run it are really nice & friendly.  They were, as always, happy to see us, spent time with us in friendly conversation, then drove us to our hotel.  They are highly recommended for anyone wanting to drive to Ft Lauderdale for a cruise.

     We are going to approach the blog of this trip differently than in the past, to Rick’s benefit but not yours.  The internet on board ship is so very slow that Rick ended up spending far too many hours sitting in the library waiting for blog entries to upload to the internet.  Moreover, since HAL charges for internet service the old fashioned way – by the minute – this slow service also cost a lot of money.  So, to save some money and (more importantly) allow Rick to enjoy more of the voyage we have decided not to post the blog episodes as they are completed, as we did last time.  Instead, they will be composed as we travel along, but not posted until we have access to reasonably fast internet service.  We may try to post some messages here via email, but those would be relatively short with few if any pictures.  We have never tried that before, so we will see how it works.

     That means that this may be the last posting you will see until we return to the USA at the end of April.  On our last world cruise Singapore was the one port that had fast (& free) internet available from the cruise terminal.  If that is true again this year we may post some episodes from there, but it appears we will be docking at a different place in Singapore this year so we don’t know if the fast internet will be available there or not.  The best way to be sure you see new episodes whenever they are posted is to sign up for email notices (instructions are on the “About this Blog” page).  If you would like to follow the cruise in real time, you obviously won’t be able to do it here, but there are web addresses listed on the “About this Blog” page of four other blogs maintained by people who will be on this cruise with us.

     At the top of this page are three buttons.

     1. The “Home” button will bring you to the most recent blog post if you are looking at any other posting.

    2. The “About This Blog” button takes you to a post that explains (very) thoroughly how to use the blog, including how to sign up for email notices of new posts.  If you want to follow this blog you should read it, since it has a lot of useful information. One key tip: the pictures have captions, sometimes interesting & sometimes not, which will pop up on a computer screen if you hover your mouse over the picture without pressing a button. We don’t know how (or whether) that works if you are viewing the blog on a phone, tablet or other device without a mouse.

    3. On the far right is a button labeled “M/S Amsterdam’s Current Position.”  That button will take you (surprise!) to a web page that will tell you where our ship is currently located (or at least where it is scheduled to be located).  That page would enable you at least to follow the ship’s progress contemporaneously, although without our scintillating photos & brilliant commentary.

     So that’s it for now.  If we aren’t nuked in the China Sea or struck down by Zika or Dengue Fever in Africa or bitten by a poisonous spider or snake in Australia, we will be back on April 28 with a boatload (so to speak) of new stories & pictures to share with everyone.

Back from Alaska (Seattle, Washington & Idaho Falls)

     June 13 found us sailing back toward Vancouver through the Inside Passage.  It was still overcast but much less foggy than on the trip north.  Lots of mountains on both sides of the channel & impressive vistas.  It must be very nice on a sunny day.

6. June 13  Inside Passage_stitch3. June 13  Inside Passage13. June 13  Inside Passage_stitch

     Our final dinner in the main dining room was the best of the trip (apart from the always great meal in the Pinnacle).  A huge, thick cut of rare & flavorful prime rib.  Unfortunately, things went downhill after that.  Rick had a very swollen & painful throat the last night of the cruise.  He felt worse the next day as we drove south from Vancouver.  When we got to Portland we visited Urgent Care, where he was diagnosed with pneumonia!  What a parting gift from HAL! And very unfair, because Rick had had both pneumonia vaccination shots.

    After disembarking we drove to Seattle where we visited with Mary’s Aunt Josie and her son & daughter in law, Russ & Karen.

3. June 14  Seattle7. June 14  Seattle10. June 14  Seattle13. June 14  Seattle 

      From Seattle we proceeded to Portland, where we had scheduled three fun days with Barb & Brian.  Unfortunately, those plans were ruined by Rick’s pneumonia, with which he spent all three days in bed until a farewell dinner on the last day.  Fortunately, all the drugs the Kaiser Urgent Care doctor prescribed had Rick on his feet in time for our scheduled departure from Portland.

      We drove four long days to Ft Worth, Texas, which seemed even longer because neither of us was really well.  There was a lot of beautiful scenery, varying as we went, as you always see driving through the American West.  One night we stopped in Twin Falls, Idaho, our first visit there.  This city is located next to a huge gorge cut by the Snake River, which you don’t even know is there until you get right up to it.  In the morning we visited the gorge before leaving.  It was a beautiful morning and the views were really something.  Hang gliders were jumping from just under the bridge to land on a large target painted on a spot near the bottom.  We spotted one waterfall down the side of the gorge, but don’t know where the twins are that gave the city its name.

4. June 19   Twin Falls,Idaho_stitch1. June 19   Twin Falls,Idaho7. June 19   Twin Falls,Idaho8. June 19   Twin Falls,Idaho

     So much for pictures.  We visited for a few days with Mary’s mother, Roxane, in Ft Worth then spent a day with Mary’s brother & sister in law, Joe & Janet, in East Texas. After that we drove for three days to get home, the most notable stop being for barbecue in Memphis, which is always great.  We arrived home on July 1, which happened to be our 45th anniversary.  After such a long, eventful & at times trying journey, just being at home & sleeping in our own bed was a great anniversary present to ourselves.  That’s all for this story; see you next time.

Ketchikan, Alaska

    We docked right in downtown Ketchikan in the morning of June 12.  Founded in 1885, Ketchikan is the 5th most populous city in Alaska with something over 8,000 residents.  The town has dubbed itself the “Salmon Capital of the World,” and commercial fishing is its major industry besides tourism.  Volendam was, during our visit, one of the tallest buildings in town.

65. June 12 Ketchikan

     We explored this town on our own on foot.  First stop was the Tongass Historical Museum (which was, until recently, attached to the public library).  Nearby was the first totem pole we encountered, the Chief Kyan pole.  Totem poles were (and are) created for a variety of reasons: to honor a dead person, record history or social events, or to honor a clan or family.  They were not religious objects & were never worshipped.  Made of wood, usually tough Red Cedar, they deteriorated over time spent outdoors in the adverse weather conditions of Alaska, as they were expected to do.  The Chief Kyan pole is the second reproduction, in 1992, of one that was carved in the early part of the 20th century.  The figures on the pole, starting at the top, are the Crane, the Thunderbird & the Brown Bear.

1. June 12 Ketchikan3. June 12 Ketchikan

    This small museum was packed with vintage photos & artifacts arranged to tell the story of Ketchikan chronologically.  Old photographs are always interesting to us.  Many of the artifacts, including colorful & eye catching pottery, basketry & clothing, are quite beautiful & the older ones are well preserved.

10. June 12 Ketchikan5. June 12 Ketchikan4. June 12 Ketchikan9. June 12 Ketchikan7. June 12 Ketchikan8. June 12 Ketchikan11. June 12 Ketchikan

     We walked on to Creek Street.  On our way we saw the “Raven Stealing The Sun” totem pole.  Carved in 1983, it represents a story about how Raven released the sun, moon & stars from their boxes.  The figures (top to bottom) are Raven, Sun, the Chief’s Daughter, a baby’s face & the Chief who had kept the heavenly bodies in boxes.

12. June 12 Ketchikan14. June 12 Ketchikan

     Creek Street is about a block of old but refurbished buildings on stilts above the Ketchikan Creek.  A wooden boardwalk runs in front of the buildings above the creek.  In season the creek is crowded with salmon fighting their way upstream to breed, but it was still calm when we were there.  This street is famous as the center for houses of prostitution after they were outlawed in other parts of town in 1903.  The brothels operated until 1954 when they were outlawed.  The most famous is Dolly’s House, the blue house in the last picture, where one of the premiere madams lived unto she died around 1970.  The largest establishment was the Star House, the pink building in the pictures below.  Most of these buildings are now shops or boutiques. Running behind these buildings up the hill is a trail called Married Man’s Way, where patrons fled when the bordello’s were raided.

15. June 12 Ketchikan18. June 12 Ketchikan20. June 12 Ketchikan19. June 12 Ketchikan24. June 12 Ketchikan

     We walked up (and I do mean up) to the Totem Heritage Center.  This is another fairly small museum dedicated to antique totem poles, many carved in the late 19th century, the high point of totem pole carving throughout the Northwest coast.  The poles were retrieved from abandoned Tlingit & Haida villages.  The villages were abandoned in the early 20th century when their people decided to live closer to churches, schools and places of employment.  These vintage totem poles are being preserved, but have not been restored.  Almost all of their paint is gone & the wood is weathered.

30. June 12 Ketchikan

     There are more totem poles stored horizontally in another room and yet more that are not on display, some 35 in all.  They were photographed in their original setting before being brought to the museum.  The totem on the left above represents Stone Ribs, a legendary shape-shifter of the Haida people, in the skin of a sea lion whose head faces the ceiling.  The middle one has a brown bear looking down from the top holding a small person.  The one on the right is a mortuary pole

31. June 12 KetchikanMortuary pole of human holding a club33. June 12 Ketchikan34. June 12 Ketchikan41. June 12 Ketchikan42. June 12 Ketchikan

     The museum has other artifacts as well, and also operates a school to teach young Indians the traditional arts.

36. June 12 Ketchikan_stitch

     Outside were two large totem poles, commissioned to commemorate the opening of the museum.  Leaving the museum we crossed a bridge over the creek & walked back toward town.

28. June 12 Ketchikan54. June 12 Ketchikan52. June 12 Ketchikan51. June 12 Ketchikan

     Along the way we passed many lovely Spring flowers. Here are a few examples.

29. June 12 Ketchikan53. June 12 Ketchikan60. June 12 Ketchikan

     We came to a bridge over a rapids in the creek.  On one side was a salmon ladder, built to help the salmon make it up a particularly difficult portion of the creek. And, of course, there was the Salmon Ladder Gift Shop!

56. June 12 Ketchikan57. June 12 Ketchikan58. June 12 Ketchikan59. June 12 Ketchikan

Down the creek from the ladder was a large sculpture of a salmon, pointing the way upstream.  I guess this is to guide any salmon unsure of which way to go. 

62. June 12 Ketchikan63. June 12 Ketchikan

     At this point we headed back to the ship, since it had been a lot of walking and one of us had a painful knee.  We saw a lot here, but there is plenty left for next time.